Croatia – Zagreb, the Plitvice Lakes and Dubrovnik

Croatia is close to Bulgaria, yet many travellers heading south for the sea never get to know it. This route links the cosy capital Zagreb, the fairy-tale Plitvice Lakes and Dubrovnik – the city George Bernard Shaw called “paradise on earth”.

Zagreb

• Ban Jelačić Square – the main square, with the equestrian statue of the ban.
• The Upper Town – St Mark’s Church with its tiled roof showing the coats of arms of Croatia and Zagreb, the Lotrščak Tower, which fires a cannon at noon every day, and the Kaptol quarter with the cathedral.
• Dolac Market – with its red umbrellas, just above the main square.
• The Museum of Broken Relationships – an unusual museum of objects left over from failed relationships.

The Plitvice Lakes

Plitvice Lakes National Park has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1979. Sixteen turquoise lakes are linked by cascades and waterfalls and surrounded by beech and fir forest. The highest fall, Veliki Slap, is 78 m. Walking the wooden boardwalks and taking the electric boats across the largest lake takes 4–6 hours. In summer, buy a timed ticket online – visitor numbers are capped.

On the way to Dubrovnik

Along the motorway south you can stop at Zadar (the Sea Organ and the Greeting to the Sun), Šibenik (St James’s Cathedral, UNESCO) or Split (Diocletian’s Palace, UNESCO).

Dubrovnik

• The city walls – about 2 km of walls circling the whole old town, with views over red roofs and the sea. Go early in the morning.
• The Stradun – the main marble street.
• The Rector’s Palace, the Franciscan Monastery with one of Europe’s oldest pharmacies, and the cathedral.
• The cable car up Mount Srđ – for sunset over the city.
• Lokrum Island – by boat from the harbour, for walks and swimming.

Dubrovnik was a filming location for Game of Thrones, and there are themed tours.

Six-day itinerary

1. Overnight drive from Sofia via Belgrade, reaching Zagreb by lunchtime. The Upper Town.
2. Plitvice Lakes – a full day in the park.
3. South along the coast – Zadar or Split.
4. Dubrovnik – the walls, the Stradun and the cable car.
5. Lokrum or a free day in Dubrovnik.
6. Return via Bosnia and Herzegovina, or Montenegro and Serbia.

Practical tips

• The currency is the euro. Croatia is in the EU and joined Schengen and the eurozone in 2023.
• Croatian motorways have toll booths.
• The road to Dubrovnik briefly crosses Bosnia and Herzegovina (Neum), or you can take the new Pelješac Bridge.
• In July and August Dubrovnik is packed with cruise passengers – visit early or late.