The Kingdom of the Thracians – sanctuaries, tombs and wine in Thrace and the Eastern Rhodopes

The Thracians lived in the Bulgarian lands for thousands of years before the Slavs and Bulgars. Herodotus called them the most numerous people after the Indians. They left no writing, but they did leave rock sanctuaries, painted tombs, gold treasures and – many would say – a love of wine. Thrace and the Eastern Rhodopes are the true kingdom of the Thracians, and this route links their most impressive monuments with the region’s wineries.

The Eastern Rhodopes

• Perperikon – a huge rock city on a hill near Kardzhali, inhabited from the 5th millennium BC to the Middle Ages. It’s thought to have been the famous sanctuary of Dionysus, where priests foretold the future. Explore rooms, streets and staircases carved into the rock, and the fortress at the top.
• Tatul – a sanctuary about 15 km from Momchilgrad, linked to Orpheus. Two graves are carved into the top of a rock pyramid, surrounded by niches and steps.
• The Womb Cave (Utrobata) – near the village of Ilinitsa. A natural cave shaped by the Thracians into a symbol of the female womb. At midday, sunlight shines through an opening in the roof and lights up the altar.
• The Deaf Stones (Gluhite Kamani) – near the village of Malko Gradishte. About 200 trapezoid niches, probably for funeral urns, are carved into a 30 m rock face, surrounded by the foundations of a great wall.
• The Dolni Glavanak cromlech – a megalithic sanctuary from the 8th–7th century BC, discovered in 2000. It’s a ring of 15 upright stones – a distant cousin of Stonehenge.

Haskovo and Alexandrovo

Near the village of Alexandrovo is the Museum of Thracian Art in the Eastern Rhodopes, with an exact replica of the Alexandrovo Tomb (4th century BC). The original holds some of the finest Thracian murals – hunting scenes, processions, weapons and clothing. The museum also displays finds from much older periods, including objects around 6,000 years old. Nearby are Mezek, with a domed Thracian tomb and a medieval fortress, and Ivaylovgrad, with the Roman Villa Armira and its mosaics.

The Valley of the Thracian Kings

Dozens of Thracian tombs lie around Kazanlak and Shipka. The Thracian Tomb of Kazanlak (4th century BC) is a UNESCO World Heritage Site thanks to its exquisite murals. The original is closed for conservation, but an exact replica stands next to it. At Starosel there’s a Thracian temple complex, with Thracian-style wineries nearby.

Wine

The Thracian Plain is one of the oldest wine regions in Europe. Try the local Mavrud and Rubin grapes, and white wines from Sakar and around Haskovo. Wineries near Starosel and Mezek offer tastings, and some have rooms.

Sample 3-day itinerary

1. Haskovo – the Deaf Stones – the Dolni Glavanak cromlech. Overnight around Haskovo or Madzharovo (a paradise for watching vultures).
2. Perperikon in the morning, then Kardzhali and its history museum. Overnight in Kardzhali.
3. Tatul – the Womb Cave – Alexandrovo. Drive back to Sofia.

With an extra day, add Kazanlak and Starosel.

Getting there

By car – take the Trakia motorway to Plovdiv or Haskovo, then head south. Most sites are outside towns with no public transport.

When to visit

Spring and autumn are ideal. In summer the Eastern Rhodopes are among the hottest places in Bulgaria. Visit early in the morning – Perperikon and Tatul have no shade.

Practical tips

• Bring water, a hat and good shoes – the sites are on rock.
• Some roads to the sanctuaries are narrow. Drive slowly.
• Check museum opening hours; many close on Mondays.