Kovachevitsa, Leshten and Dolen – the stone villages of the Western Rhodopes

In the Mesta valley above Gotse Delchev lie some of Bulgaria’s most beautiful and authentic villages. The houses are built almost entirely of stone – walls, fences and even roofs of stone slabs. Only the top floor is wooden, with large windows and balconies. The streets are narrow and cobbled, and the Rhodope forests rise above them. Kovachevitsa and Dolen are architectural reserves, and Leshten shows how an abandoned village can come back to life through rural tourism.

Kovachevitsa

Kovachevitsa has kept its 18th–19th-century look almost untouched. Houses of three or four storeys cling to one another on the steep slope. See Dzharova House, Melcha House, Kyupova House and St Nikola Church. Dozens of Bulgarian films were shot here – Measure for Measure, Manly Times, Where Are You Going? – so some corners may look familiar. Have lunch at a local tavern with Rhodope dishes such as klin (a cheese pie), patatnik (a potato pie) and spit-roast lamb. Some taverns show off a winter larder hung with dried meats and sausages.

Leshten

Leshten is a small village that almost emptied in the 20th century and was revived as a cluster of guesthouses. Its Revival-era houses have been carefully restored, and the church dates from 1836. The local attraction is the Clay House, with oval walls, a thatched roof and round windows. Some compare it to the Flintstones’ home, others to the little pigs’ cottage in the fairy tale. From Leshten, a path of about an hour leads to the Dark Forest reserve, with the Black Rock, the Goat Stone, the Kanina river canyon and the Blue Pool.

Dolen

Dolen grew out of old Thracian hamlets, whose ruins can still be seen around the village. Its stone houses, high walls and fountains make it quieter and less visited than Kovachevitsa – ideal for a peaceful stroll.

One-day route from Sofia

1. 7:30 – leave Sofia via Blagoevgrad, Razlog and Gotse Delchev.
2. 11:00 – Leshten: the houses, the Clay House, and an optional walk to the Dark Forest.
3. 13:30 – Kovachevitsa: lunch and a walk around the reserve.
4. 16:00 – Dolen (if there’s time) or a mineral pool in Ognyanovo.
5. 17:00 – head back, reaching Sofia around 21:00.

Two-day version with Melnik

The old programme combined the villages with Melnik: on day one, drive to Melnik, explore the town and stay in a guesthouse; on day two, visit Kovachevitsa, Leshten and Dolen and return in the evening. See our Melnik guide.

Getting there

By car – the easiest option. The road from Gotse Delchev to the villages is narrow and winding. By public transport – take a bus to Gotse Delchev, then a taxi.

When to visit

May–October. Autumn is especially beautiful with the colourful forests. In winter the villages are quiet and romantic, but roads may be snowy.

Practical tips

• Staying overnight in Leshten or Kovachevitsa is an experience in itself. Book early.
• There are no ATMs in the villages, so bring cash.
• The mineral baths at Ognyanovo and Banya (near Gotse Delchev) are a perfect end to the day.