Thessaloniki – the White Tower, Byzantine churches, tavernas and shopping

Thessaloniki is Greece’s second-largest city and the nearest big Mediterranean city to Sofia. It was founded in 315 BC by King Cassander, who named it after his wife Thessalonike, half-sister of Alexander the Great. It also matters to Slavic history: Saints Cyril and Methodius, creators of the first Slavic alphabet, were born here. Its early Christian and Byzantine monuments are a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and the city is famous for its tavernas, pastry shops and shopping.

What to see

• The White Tower – the city’s symbol on the waterfront. Inside is a museum of Thessaloniki’s history, and the top has views over the bay.
• The Arch of Galerius and the Rotunda – 4th-century Roman monuments built by Emperor Galerius. The Rotunda has served as a mausoleum, church and mosque.
• The Basilica of Hagios Demetrios – dedicated to the city’s patron saint, with a crypt at the site of his martyrdom.
• Hagia Sophia – an 8th-century Byzantine church with an Ascension mosaic in its dome.
• The Upper Town (Ano Poli) – old houses, narrow lanes, the city walls and the Heptapyrgion (Seven Towers) fortress. The best view of the city and the sea.
• The Archaeological Museum – home to the famous gilded Derveni Krater. The Museum of Byzantine Culture is next door.
• Aristotelous Square – the main square, open to the sea.
• The Modiano and Kapani markets – fish, olives, spices and sweets.
• Ladadika – an old port quarter, now full of tavernas and bars.

Shopping

Thessaloniki is a favourite day-trip shopping destination. The main shopping street is Tsimiski. Outside the city is Mediterranean Cosmos, a mall with more than 200 shops, a cinema and restaurants, with a large IKEA next door.

Food

Try bougatsa (a filo pastry with custard or cheese) for breakfast, gyros and souvlaki, fresh fish in Ladadika, and the treats from the city’s famous pastry shops.

Day trip from Sofia

1. 7:00 – leave Sofia via Blagoevgrad and the Kulata–Promachonas border.
2. 11:00 – the White Tower, the waterfront, Aristotelous Square, the Arch of Galerius and the Rotunda.
3. Lunch in Ladadika or at Kapani market.
4. Afternoon – Hagios Demetrios, or shopping on Tsimiski or at Mediterranean Cosmos.
5. 18:00 – head home, reaching Sofia around 22:00.

With an overnight stay, add the Upper Town and the museums on day two.

Getting there

By car – along the Struma motorway to the Kulata–Promachonas border, then the Greek motorway to Thessaloniki. About 310 km and 4 hours. By bus – regular direct buses from Sofia. By air – Makedonia Airport has flights from many European cities.

When to visit

All year round. Spring and autumn are most pleasant, and July and August are hot. In December the city is decorated, with Christmas attractions along the waterfront.

Practical tips

• Parking in the centre is hard and paid. Use a car park or public transport.
• Weekends and holidays can mean long queues at the Kulata border.
• Many shops close early on Sundays, and at midday on some days.