Vergina – the tomb of Philip II of Macedon

The small village of Vergina, at the foot of the Pieria mountains, hides one of the greatest archaeological discoveries of the 20th century. This was Aigai – the first capital of ancient Macedon and the burial place of its kings. In 1977, archaeologist Manolis Andronikos found an unlooted royal tomb under the Great Tumulus, almost certainly that of Philip II, father of Alexander the Great. The site is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The Museum of the Royal Tombs

The museum is built inside the mound itself. You walk into the half-light and see the tombs in their original positions, each the size of a small house. The facade of Philip’s tomb has a fine frieze showing a hunting scene.

The most precious finds:

• The golden larnax that held the king’s bones, with the Vergina Sun (a 16-pointed star) on its lid.
• The golden oak wreath – dozens of gold leaves and acorns.
• Weapons and armour – iron cuirasses, breastplates and shields, including the only fully preserved Macedonian helmet ever found.
• Miniature ivory portraits thought to show Philip, Alexander and Olympias.
• A tomb attributed to Alexander IV, son of Alexander the Great.

The Palace of Aigai

On the hill above the museum is the palace of Philip II, the largest building in classical Greece. After a long restoration it’s open to visitors again. In the theatre next to it, Philip was assassinated in 336 BC during his daughter’s wedding celebrations.

Day trip from Sofia

1. 6:30 – leave Sofia, with a coffee stop in the Kresna Gorge.
2. 12:00 – Vergina: the Royal Tombs museum (1 h 30 min – 2 h) and the palace.
3. Lunch in Vergina or in Veria, 13 km away.
4. 15:00 – head back, with a stop before the border and dinner in Kresna.
5. 22:00 – arrive in Sofia.

It’s a long day. If you can, stay overnight in Veria – with its Jewish quarter, Byzantine churches and river – or in Thessaloniki.

Getting there

By car – via the Kulata–Promachonas border and the motorway towards Thessaloniki, then on to Veria and Vergina. About 380 km and 4 h 30 min.

Practical tips

• Photography of the exhibits is not allowed in the museum.
• Check opening hours before you go; they’re shorter in winter.
• Combine with Thessaloniki or Meteora for a 2–3 day trip.