Edirne – Selimiye Mosque, the bazaars and the Bulgarian Church of St George

Edirne (Bulgarian: Odrin) is only about an hour past the Kapitan Andreevo border. For almost a century before the conquest of Constantinople, it was the capital of the Ottoman Empire, which is why it’s full of mosques, baths, bridges and bazaars. For Bulgarians, Edirne also carries memories: in 1913 the Bulgarian army took its fortress in the Siege of Adrianople, and the town still has a Bulgarian church. Edirne is perfect for a day trip combining history, great food and shopping.

What to see

• The Selimiye Mosque – the masterpiece of the great architect Mimar Sinan, completed in 1575. Its huge dome and four slender minarets (over 70 m) make it one of the most beautiful mosques in the world. A UNESCO World Heritage Site.
• The Old Mosque (Eski Camii) – early 15th century, with giant calligraphy on its walls.
• The Üç Şerefeli Mosque – with a three-balconied minaret, older than the Selimiye.
• The Ali Pasha Bazaar – a long covered market also designed by Sinan – and the Bedesten, old trading halls full of textiles, jewellery and souvenirs.
• The Complex of Bayezid II – with a Museum of Health in the former hospital, where patients were treated with music and the sound of water.
• The Bulgarian Church of St George – restored, with an iconostasis and a small museum about Edirne’s Bulgarians.
• The bridges over the Tundzha and Maritsa – Ottoman stone bridges with sunset views of the city.

Kırkpınar

Every year in late June or early July, Edirne hosts the Kırkpınar oil-wrestling championships – considered the oldest continuously held sporting competition in the world, dating to the 14th century.

Food and souvenirs

• Tava ciğer – thinly sliced fried liver, Edirne’s signature dish.
• Badem ezmesi – almond marzipan.
• Fruit soaps – handmade, scented soaps shaped like fruit, a traditional Edirne souvenir.

Itinerary

1. 6:30 – leave Sofia on the Trakia motorway.
2. 11:30 – arrive and visit the Selimiye and the Old Mosque.
3. Lunch – tava ciğer at a restaurant in the centre.
4. Afternoon – Ali Pasha Bazaar, the Church of St George and the bridges.
5. 15:00 – shopping at one of the malls.
6. 17:00 – head home, reaching Sofia around 23:00.

Practical tips

• Documents – check whether your ID card is enough or you need a passport for Turkey; the rules depend on nationality and can change.
• Time zone – Turkey is on UTC+3 all year, so in winter it’s 1 hour ahead of Bulgaria.
• Mosque etiquette – women cover their hair, shoulders and knees. Take off your shoes.
• Currency – Turkish lira (TRY). Change a little or pay by card.
• The Kapitan Andreevo border can have long queues around holidays.