Venice – a tale of the lagoon (with Graz on the way)

Venice is built on more than 100 islands in a lagoon, linked by some 400 bridges. There are no cars – just boats, gondolas and narrow lanes (calli) that are a joy to get lost in. The city and its lagoon are a UNESCO site. Venice was once the capital of a powerful maritime republic that traded with the whole East for centuries. Today it’s one of the most visited cities in the world, so it pays to know when and how to see it.

What to see

St Mark’s Square – “the drawing room of Europe”, with St Mark’s Basilica and its golden mosaics, and the Campanile, with views over the whole lagoon.
The Doge’s Palace – the seat of Venetian power, linked to the prison by the Bridge of Sighs.
The Grand Canal – ride vaporetto (water bus) line 1 from the station to St Mark’s. It’s the cheapest “boat tour” in town.
The Rialto Bridge and the fish market beside it.
Santa Maria della Salute – a Baroque basilica at the mouth of the canal.
The Gallerie dell’Accademia and the Peggy Guggenheim Collection.
Murano (glass), Burano (colourful houses and lace) and Torcello – islands in the lagoon.

Carnival

In February, before Lent, Venice hosts its famous Carnival – masks, costumes, balls and parades. Book months ahead.

Graz on the way

The old coach programme “To the cities of Schwarzenegger and Casanova” went via Vienna and Graz, Austria’s second city. Graz is Arnold Schwarzenegger’s hometown, with the Schlossberg hill and its clock tower, the old town (UNESCO) and the modern “friendly alien” – the Kunsthaus. See also Vienna.

Two- to three-day itinerary

Arrive, ride the Grand Canal by vaporetto, then St Mark’s and the Doge’s Palace.
The Rialto, the Accademia and the Salute, a wander through the calli and an evening in Cannaregio.
Murano and Burano.

Practical tips

On certain peak-season days, Venice charges day-trippers an entry fee. Check whether your date is on the calendar and pay online. Overnight guests are exempt but must register.
Gondolas are expensive – for a taste, take a traghetto, a public gondola that crosses the Grand Canal in a minute.
Avoid the “tourist menus” around St Mark’s. Eat at the bacari – little Venetian bars serving cicchetti (snacks) with a glass of wine.
Sitting on squares and steps to eat is banned and can bring a fine.